Pastelaria A Bijou de Cascais: a pastel de nata away from the circus

There is one rule for eating well in Cascais: walk away from the bay. The closer you get to the seafront promenade, the higher the price and the colder the coffee. Pastelaria A Bijou de Cascais sits on Rua Regimento 19 de Infantaria, number 55, a working street that is more about getting around than getting photographed, and that lack of glamour works entirely in its favour. Here you pay for the pastry, not the view.

Where it is and how to get there

Rua Regimento 19 de Infantaria runs just behind the historic centre, a few minutes on foot from Cascais train station, the end of the line that runs out from Cais do Sodré in Lisbon. If you arrive by train, step off, head north of the centre, and you are at the door in five to ten minutes. Driving is a mistake: parking in Cascais is a contact sport, especially at weekends. Come by train, make this your first stop of the day, then carry on to the sea.

The surrounding neighbourhood is the Cascais of people who actually live here: pharmacies, stationers, locals running errands. It is the perfect counterweight to the postcard crowds you find out at the Boca do Inferno or on the steps down to the cove below Miradouro da Azarujinha.

What to order

The pastel de nata is the reason any self-respecting Portuguese pastry shop exists, and here it is the safe bet: crisp flaky pastry, custard scorched on top, sugar kept in check. Order it at the counter while it is still warm and do not commit the sin of boxing it up to go, because steam in a box turns crisp into soggy. Eat it standing, right there, with a short espresso alongside.

The place also makes a point of its chocolate mousse puffs, choux pastry filled and heavier than they look. They are indulgent and sweet, and they work far better shared than tackled solo as a feat of endurance. If you are properly hungry, treat this as the second course, not the first.

The price band is mid-range, marked €€: not bargain-basement neighbourhood prices, but nowhere near the inflated marina-terrace tariff either. A pastel de nata and a coffee stays reasonable. Two pastries and two drinks mid-morning still leaves you with a receipt that does not ruin the walk.

Practical tips

Hours: opening times are not publicly confirmed, so phone ahead before making a special trip. The number is +351 932 312 526, and there is information on the official site, bijoudecascais.eatbu.com.
Reservations: this is a pastry shop, not a sit-down restaurant. No booking needed. Turn up, wait your turn at the counter, order.
Payment: carry some cash just in case. Plenty of neighbourhood pastelarias take cards, but for a small bill it is not always worth tapping, and not all have a friendly minimum. Check directly if it matters to you.
Dress code: none. Straight off the beach in flip-flops? You are perfectly dressed.
Best time: mid-morning, when the pastries come out of the oven and the counter has yet to fill with the lunch crowd.

How to slot it into your morning

The real advantage of this pastelaria is its quietly practical location, away from the crush. Make it your launch point. After the pastel, walk south towards the bay and the Farol Museu de Santa Marta, looking out over the Atlantic with one of the best photographs in town on offer. If you would rather spend the day eating your way around, there is a whole route of small tascas and stalls in markets and street food across Cascais, and to understand the town beyond the tourist froth, the conscious guide to navigating Cascais is worth your time.

The competition

Cascais is not short of pastry shops, and it would be dishonest to pretend this is the only good one. Pastelaria Garrett is the established classic, with history and a name made, while Sacolinha plays on a bigger, broader scale. A Bijou de Cascais does not try to compete on pomp: it is the pastelaria for someone who wants a good custard tart, a decent coffee, and to be on their way without ceremony.

The verdict

Go for the pastel de nata, still warm, eaten at the counter. Share a chocolate mousse puff if the morning calls for a second hit of sugar. Pay in cash to be safe, confirm the hours by phone, and use the place as your first stop before heading down to the water. It is honest, well placed for anyone arriving by train, and fairly priced in a town where, near the shore, that is increasingly rare. If you fancy escaping the town after your coffee, there are good ideas in the best day trips from Cascais.

Pastelaria A Bijou de Cascais