Diving the Formigas Islets from São Miguel

Let me be upfront: diving the Formigas Islets is not a casual afternoon activity. It's a full-day expedition, 41 nautical miles off São Miguel's south coast, to one of Europe's most remote dive sites. There's no nearby shelter port, currents can be strong, and you need at least a Level 2 international diving certification. But if you have the experience and the nerve, this is likely the finest dive you'll ever do in the Atlantic.

What Are the Formigas Islets

The Formigas are a cluster of rocks and underwater reefs between São Miguel and Santa Maria, classified as a natural reserve. A submarine mountain rising from the Atlantic floor creates a unique ecosystem: giant manta rays, smooth hammerhead sharks, Galapagos sharks, tunas, barracudas, and devil rays pass through on their migratory routes. The nearby Dollabarat Reef adds another layer to the experience. There's even the Olympia shipwreck, sitting between 30 and 50 metres deep on the islets' southwest side.

This isn't a tropical reef dive with bright colours. It's deep Atlantic: dark blue water, currents, large pelagics materialising from the void. The scale is unlike anything you'll find near shore.

The Operator: Azores Sub Dive Center

The Formigas expedition is run by Azores Sub Dive Center, based at Marina de Vila Franca do Campo (Store 6), on São Miguel's south coast. They don't depart from Ribeira Grande, which is on the north coast. If you're staying in Ribeira Grande, allow about 30 minutes by car to reach Vila Franca.

The price is €285.02 per person, which includes a professional guide, tank and weights, €1.5 million liability insurance, two dives, locally made Azorean cookies, fruit, and drinking water. Full equipment rental (wetsuit, regulator, BCD) is not included. Confirm directly with the operator for gear hire pricing.

Contact: +351 918 755 853 | [email protected]
Booking: azoressub.com

What the Day Looks Like

The trip runs from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., a solid 10 hours. You start early at the marina with a briefing and gear setup. The boat ride to the Formigas takes roughly two hours, depending on sea conditions. It's a long crossing in open ocean, and there's no softening that fact. If you're prone to seasickness, take precautions.

You'll do two dives, typically one at the Formigas and one at Dollabarat, depending on conditions. Between dives, you eat, rest on the boat, and, if you're lucky, spot pelagics at the surface. You're back at the marina by late afternoon.

Best Time to Go

The expedition only runs in July, August, and September, when sea conditions allow it. Even within this window, departures depend on ocean state. Book ahead, but be prepared for postponements. August tends to be the most stable month, though July sometimes means fewer divers and more space on the boat.

Requirements and What to Bring

• International diving certification Level 2 (Advanced Open Water or equivalent)
• A prior coastal dive with the centre is mandatory before the expedition
• Minimum age: 10 years
• Reef-safe sunscreen (this is a natural reserve)
• Warm layers for the boat crossing: even in summer, open-ocean crossings get cold
• Seasickness medication if needed
• Underwater camera if you have one. You'll want to document this

What Makes This Worth It

I've dived various spots across the Azores, and the Formigas stand apart because of the sheer feeling of being in the middle of the ocean. No land references, no shelter. When you descend, the blue is absolute. Then, suddenly, the reef wall appears, teeming with life. This is where the giant mantas are found, not at the coastal spots.

The moment that stays with you is when a school parts and something large appears. A hammerhead gliding slowly past, a manta with a three-metre wingspan. No serious operator guarantees specific sightings, but the odds at Formigas are among the highest in the Azores.

A More Accessible Alternative

If the Formigas price or requirements are out of reach, Best Spot Azores, based in Ponta Delgada, offers offshore dives from €125 per person (one dive), with a minimum group of 6. Contact: [email protected] | (+351) 963 469 932.

Before and After the Expedition

If you're basing yourself in Ribeira Grande around the expedition, make the most of the town. The Ribeira Grande market is good for picking up cheese and fresh fruit to bring on the boat. For dinner after a full day at sea, A Merenda is a solid choice: generous portions and local cooking without pretension. And if you want another perspective on the ocean, the black sand beaches on the north coast offer a total contrast to the deep blue of the Formigas.

Check the local festival calendar too, in case your visit lines up with something worth seeing.