Quinta do Furão
Santana
Perched on the slopes of Lombo do Curral, these eight independent units offer a masterclass in rural independence within a UNESCO Biosphere. Forget the day-trip crowds; this is high-altitude living with private patios and the best access to Madeira’s premier hiking trails.
Santana suffers from a severe case of postcard-itis. Most visitors see it as a 30-minute photo-op: snap the thatched triangular houses, grab a souvenir, and flee back to the sunny south. They are missing the point entirely. The real Santana isn't found in the manicured gardens of the theme park; it's found in the damp, vertical silence of the Santana Biosphere: High-Altitude Hiking and the Laurissilva Microclimate. This is where the Aldeamento Turístico Casas de Campo do Pomar sits, offering a version of Madeira that is raw, green, and unapologetically quiet.
Located at Estrada do Lombo do Curral, 54, this establishment isn't a hotel for those who need a pillow menu or a 24-hour concierge. It is a cluster of eight independent units that feel more like a strategic mountain retreat than a tourist resort. With an 8.8-star rating from over 200 reviews, it’s clear that the appeal here lies in consistency and authenticity rather than flashy amenities. It’s priced at a fair €€ level, making it accessible for hikers and slow-travelers who prioritize location and character over marble bathrooms.
Each unit comes with its own kitchenette and private patio. In a town like Santana, where the restaurant scene can be hit-or-miss after dark, having your own kitchen is a game-changer. There is a specific joy in visiting the local market, picking up some bolo do caco, local eggs, and a bottle of regional wine, and preparing a meal as the mist rolls over the Lombo do Curral. It turns a stay into a residence. You aren't just visiting the biosphere; you are living in it.
The architecture is simple and functional, designed to frame the outdoors rather than compete with it. The private patios are the star of the show. Sitting there in the early morning, watching the clouds snag on the peaks of the UNESCO reserve, you realize why people settle in these heights. The air is thinner, cleaner, and carries the scent of cedar and wet earth. It’s a sensory reset that Funchal’s coastal resorts simply cannot offer.
If you are in Madeira to hike, staying at Casas de Campo do Pomar is a tactical masterstroke. You are minutes away from the Queimadas forest park, the starting point for the legendary Caldeirão Verde levada. By staying here, you gain a massive advantage over the busloads of day-trippers coming from the south. You can be on the trail at 8:00 AM, enjoying the silence before the crowds arrive. The same applies to Pico Ruivo; you are already halfway up the mountain before you even start the engine.
The neighborhood, Lombo do Curral, is a short walk from the traditional center of Santana, but it feels worlds apart. It’s a place of orchards (hence the name 'Pomar') and small-scale farming. It’s steep, it’s green, and it’s quiet. For reservations or inquiries, you can reach them at +351 926 737 392. Don't expect a fast-paced environment; things move at the speed of the growing ferns here.
In the end, Casas de Campo do Pomar is about the luxury of being left alone. It’s about the 8.8 stars earned through genuine hospitality and a location that feels like the edge of the world. It’s a place for those who prefer hiking boots to high heels and who understand that the real spirit of Madeira isn't found in a postcard, but in the quiet rustle of an orchard in a UNESCO Biosphere.