Lisbon has viewpoints everyone knows about, and then it has Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. It sits higher up in Graça than the better known Miradouro da Graça, it is harder to find than Santa Catarina, and that is precisely why locals still come here when they want to look at the city without other people's elbows in the way. The address is straightforward: R. da Senhora do Monte, 1170-108. Getting there is the part that takes effort, and that is half the point.

Where it is, and why the name

The viewpoint is glued to a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Mount, at the top of one of Lisbon's seven hills. It is one of the highest points in the city, with a 180 degree sweep over the old town: São Jorge Castle on the left, the Tagus running below, and on a clear winter afternoon you can see all the way to the south bank with a sharpness that the more touristed Santa Luzia terrace simply never delivers.

The chapel itself is, by tradition, a place where pregnant women came (and still come) to ask for an easy birth. So if someone is on their knees inside, keep your voice down. It is not a museum, it is a working chapel, and Our Lady of the Mount is not here to be a backdrop for wedding pictures.

How to get up there without losing your knees

The romantic option is to take tram 28 to Graça and walk up Rua da Graça and then Rua da Senhora do Monte. It is about ten minutes uphill, and the climb is the real thing. If your knees have opinions, take bus 734, which stops right next to the viewpoint. By taxi or Uber, ask the driver to drop you at Largo da Senhora do Monte, not at Miradouro da Graça. They are different places, about four hundred metres apart, and confusing them is the most common mistake first time visitors make. Forget driving your own car. Parking in Graça is a form of penance.

When to go, and when not to

Sunset is the obvious answer, with one caveat. Between May and September, from about 7.30pm to 9pm, the terrace fills with tripods, bottles of Super Bock and portable speakers. If you want a quiet sunset, come in February or November, with a proper coat, after five in the afternoon. Lisbon's winter light has a quality that justifies the climb alone.

The underrated hour: nine in the morning. The sun is behind you, the Castle is fully lit, the terrace is empty, and the umbrella pines that shade the benches smell of warm resin. It is the moment when you understand why this city never gets tired of itself.

What to expect at the spot

There is no ticket booth, no opening hours, no entrance fee. It is a public space, open twenty four hours a day, and the only thing you pay for is the effort of getting there. There is a small kiosk on the terrace, the kind that sells beer, water, ginjinha in chocolate cups and not much else. Prices are honest by Lisbon standards (around two or three euros a drink, which earns the € symbol), but check directly when you arrive because kiosk concessions change hands.

Public toilets: none. Plan accordingly, especially with children. Benches to sit on: a few, under the pines, but on a summer evening they are all taken by seven.

What you actually see

From left to right, and this is worth knowing: São Jorge Castle, then the white and pink rooftops of Mouraria tumbling down to Baixa, the Jerónimos tower in the distance on a clear day, the 25 de Abril bridge, Cristo Rei across the river, and on the right Bairro Alto climbing back up towards Estrela. In the foreground, terracotta roof tiles, antennas, laundry hung out to dry, and seagulls that decided long ago this city belongs to them.

There is a tiled panel on the viewpoint wall that names the monuments. It is cracked in one corner, but it still reads. Use it instead of your phone. It is prettier and faster.

What to pair it with

The viewpoint is a one hour stop at most. Chain it with the rest of Graça: the church of São Vicente de Fora is fifteen minutes on foot, and the Feira da Ladra flea market runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays at Campo de Santa Clara, right around the corner. For a serious lunch or dinner, head back down towards the centre and consider As Bifanas do Afonso for a quick honest sandwich, or book ahead for an evening of fado at O Faia in Bairro Alto.

If Senhora do Monte gives you an appetite for more Lisbon, pair this walk with our guide to ten things to do in Lisbon, or go deeper into the city's culture through the essay on local culture and neighbourhoods. If you need a pastry shop on the way down, consult our connoisseur's route through Lisbon's pastéis de nata.

Practical tips, no fluff

No reservation needed. It is a viewpoint, not a restaurant.
Bring cash for the kiosk. Card machines are unreliable here.
Comfortable shoes, no heels. The Portuguese pavement between Graça and the miradouro is steep, and lethal in the rain.
In August, bring mosquito repellent. The pines are lovely, the mosquitoes agree.
Official site to confirm access and one off events: visitlisboa.com.
Phone number, fixed hours, star rating: not applicable. It is public, it is always open.

It is a viewpoint. No chef, no dress code, no demands on you beyond climbing a steep street in a neighbourhood that is still a neighbourhood. In return it hands you the whole of Lisbon, and on most days, it hands it to you without a queue.