Surfing from Santarém: Beginner Waves to Try in June

Let's get something straight from the start. Santarém has no surf. The city sits about fifty kilometres inland on a bluff above the Tagus, and the river running underneath is good for looking at, not for paddling. So if you want to actually catch waves while based here, you need to drive. The good news is that the closest beginner coast is genuinely worth the trip, especially in June.

That coast is Ericeira, one hour and fifteen minutes from Santarém along the A1 and A8. It became Europe's only UNESCO World Surfing Reserve in 2011, and June happens to be the most forgiving month of the year here. The water is warming up but not yet warm, the swell stays modest, and the August crowds are still a month away. I drove this route last summer with my swimsuit already on under a hoodie and the kind of pre-dawn sleepiness that the road quickly fixed.

Where to book: Surf Riders & Co Ericeira

After trying a couple of schools in town, I'd recommend Surf Riders & Co, based at Rua do Carmo, 33A in the centre of Ericeira. The reasoning is practical. Group lessons run 40 euros, a five-lesson weekly package is 175 euros, instructors are certified by the Portuguese Surfing Federation, and you don't have to worry about parking near the beach because they handle the logistics. Booking is straightforward: call +351 914 949 686 or email [email protected] a day or two ahead.

What sets the school apart isn't marketing, it's the fact that they pick the right beach for the day's conditions. In June that usually means Foz do Lizandro or São Lourenço, both sand-bottom beaches with waves that won't intimidate a first-timer. If the swell builds, they shift the group to Praia do Sul instead. Smaller schools can't always pull off that flexibility.

What the lesson looks like

The standard lesson runs about two hours, split into three clear phases. The first twenty minutes are on land: safety brief, how to spot a rip current, how to read the ocean, body position on the soft-top board. Then dry-land practice on the sand, simulating the pop-up over and over. Only after that do you actually get wet, and the first thing you'll learn is that catching the wave isn't the hard part. Paddling against it is.

The best moment, honestly, isn't your first time standing up. That one happens half by accident, with the instructor giving the board a push at exactly the right second. It's the third or fourth time, when you read the wave yourself and the ocean does the work. There's a fraction of a second up there when you understand what surfers mean about rhythm. That alone earns the drive from Santarém.

When to go in June

The first two weeks of June are the sweet spot. Water temperature hovers around 17°C, which a 3/2mm wetsuit makes comfortable, and the wave height typically sits between 0.5 and 1 metre, exactly what you want when you're learning. Skip weekends. Even in June the coast fills up, and you'll get more wave time on a Tuesday. The 9am session is better than the afternoon one too: the light is sharper, the wind hasn't picked up yet, and the line-up isn't crowded.

Getting there from Santarém

By car: A1 to Aveiras, A8 toward Mafra, then EN247 into Ericeira. Around 90 minutes with normal traffic. By public transport it's more painful: CP train from Santarém to Lisbon Santa Apolónia, then the Mafrense bus from Campo Grande to Ericeira. That's a full day for a two-hour lesson, so it really only makes sense if you're staying overnight in the village.

If you'd rather sleep in Santarém the night before and drive out at dawn, Santarem Hostel offers flexible check-out. For breakfast before hitting the road, Pastelaria Bijou or Pastelaria de Santa Clara will sort you out with strong coffee and a Berlin doughnut without fuss. If you need something more substantial, Central Café Restaurante opens early.

What to bring

• The wetsuit and board are included. You don't need to bring either.
• Swimwear to wear under the wetsuit. Cotton underwear does not work and will chafe.
• A thick towel for after. Your body dries fast, your hair won't.
• Mineral, waterproof sunscreen. Even on overcast days the sand reflects enough to burn.
• A full change of dry clothes including socks for the drive home.
• A water bottle. Hydrating before and after actually changes how you recover.
• A salty snack for the break, a banana or some nuts works fine.

Back in Santarém after the surf

You'll return to Santarém around early afternoon with the kind of hunger that doesn't get fixed with a biscuit. Plan the rest of the day properly. If you've still got energy, our guide to Santarém beyond the viewpoint walks through a half-afternoon route that fits the post-surf mood. If you'd rather sit down and eat properly, the local food guide separates the real places from the ones living off distracted tourists.

Confirm before you go

The prices quoted were the ones in effect at the time of our visit. Always confirm directly with the provider before booking, especially the session schedule on bigger swell days when the group may move to a different beach. Email replies usually arrive within a few hours during the week. On weekends, call instead.

This is a morning that justifies the alarm clock. If you're staying in Santarém in June and you've ever wanted to actually try surfing without the August chaos, this is the honest version of the exercise.