Friday the 13th in Montalegre: The Witches' Night Festival

There is something genuinely strange about arriving in Montalegre on a Friday the 13th. The town sits above 1,000 metres, surrounded by granite silence and cutting wind, and for most of the year it feels like a place where time has stopped. But on these specific dates, when the calendar lines up the cursed number with the sixth day of the week, Montalegre transforms. Around 30,000 people drive up the mountain to take part in the Noite das Bruxas, a night that generates two million euros in economic impact and books out every bed within a 50-kilometre radius.

What the Sexta 13 actually is

The idea was born in 2002, launched by Father Fontes, an almost legendary figure from the Barroso highlands who realised that superstition could be turned into celebration. Instead of fearing the date, Montalegre embraced it. The result is a free-entry festival, organised by the Câmara Municipal de Montalegre, blending street theatre, Celtic music, mountain gastronomy and collective rituals, with the medieval castle as its main stage.

In 2026, there are three Friday the 13ths: February's edition was cancelled due to an atmospheric river that swept across northern Portugal, March's went ahead successfully, and the next one is set for November 13th. If you are planning to go, that is the date to mark.

How the day unfolds

The festivities begin at 13:13, because in Montalegre even the schedule respects superstition. During the afternoon, hundreds of performers roam the streets dressed as witches, demons and creatures from Barroso folklore. There are face-painting stations, live music and stalls run by local artisans and food producers. The atmosphere is festive but not forced. Children love it, adults get into the spirit, and the performers take their roles seriously.

The real spectacle, however, is after dark. Around 22:30, the witches gather in the main square and begin a torchlit procession through the narrow streets. At 23:00 comes the "Burning of the Hanged Man", a symbolic ritual accompanied by music and fire that turns the castle into something close to a film set. At 23:30, the most participatory moment: the communal queimada, where the traditional Galician drink is prepared while an incantation is recited aloud. The aguardente burns in a clay pot, the flames turn blue, and everyone drinks from the same ladle. Fireworks over the castle follow immediately, and a DJ takes over until the early hours.

What to eat and drink

Do not go to Montalegre without eating. The Barroso smoked meat stalls are the gastronomic highlight of the event: alheiras, salpicões, presunto and chouriças, all with protected geographical indication status. There is also caldo served from iron pots, rye bread, and of course the queimada. In the village restaurants, roast kid goat and posta barrosã (thick-cut veal steak) are what to order, but book your table in advance. On Sexta 13 nights, getting a seat without a reservation is harder than finding parking.

Practical tips

Getting there

Montalegre is about 140 km from Porto via the A7 and A24 motorways. The final stretch is on a national road, and the mountain curves demand attention at night. If you prefer not to drive, Roma Tours, a Porto-based operator, offers day excursions with coach transport for €25 per person. They depart at 15:30 from Porto and return at 01:00. Contact: +351 225 390 529 or [email protected] (romatours.pt).

What to wear

Montalegre in November is properly cold. We are talking temperatures that can drop below 5°C at night, with wind. Layers are essential: thermal base layer, fleece, windproof jacket, hat and gloves. Waterproof shoes, because the ground is uneven and rain is likely. And yes, dress up in costume. It is not mandatory, but it is part of the experience and the locals appreciate the effort.

Where to stay

The Hostel Retiro do Gerês in Montalegre is a budget-friendly option, but book weeks in advance. Chaves, 40 minutes away, is the most practical alternative. There are also rural houses scattered around the municipality, but on Sexta 13 dates everything fills up fast.

The best moment

The witch procession between 22:30 and 23:00 is the highlight. Position yourself near the castle, but arrive early to secure a good spot. After 23:30, when the fireworks begin, the view from the church courtyard is the best in town.

Why it is worth going

The Sexta 13 is not a tourist event manufactured for outsiders. It is a local celebration that grew organically, fuelled by the Celtic tradition and superstition of the Barroso highlands, and it maintains a rare authenticity. The witches are not hired actors from an events company: they are neighbours, teachers, volunteer firefighters who dress up and enjoy themselves as much as the audience. The queimada is not an Instagrammable cocktail: it is a shared tradition that tastes of strong aguardente and woodsmoke.

If you want to explore the region at a slower pace, combine the visit with a tour of the castle, the castro and mountain cuisine. Montalegre deserves more than one night, but if you only have one night, make it a Friday the 13th.

Essential information

• Organiser: Câmara Municipal de Montalegre
• Official website: sexta13.pt
• Contact: +351 276 510 200 / [email protected]
• Entry: Free
• Next 2026 edition: November 13
• Organised transport (from Porto): Roma Tours, €25/person, romatours.pt