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Mercado Negro on Rua de João Mendonça is where it starts: a cultural association, bar, and concert venue in an old building. Add Praça do Peixe, jazz bars, and a nightclub open since 1987, and you realise Aveiro after dark has more personality than most Portuguese district capitals.
Skip the Praça da Ribeira tourist traps and follow the three-level rule: aperitif at the Palácio de Cristal kiosk, dinner in the Baixa, last drink up high. An honest guide to drinking well in Porto from June to September, without paying airport prices.