Santa Maria Trails and Beaches with SMATUR

Santa Maria is the oldest island in the Azores and the only one with yellow limestone sand beaches. It also gets more sun than any other island in the archipelago, which matters when you're walking the south coast cliffs at mid-morning with nothing but Atlantic breeze and birdsong for company. SMATUR, a local operator based in Vila do Porto since 2014, runs guided walking tours along the island's official trails and lesser-known circuits. If you want to properly understand this island, walking is the only way.

What the Experience Involves

SMATUR's walking tours cost €40 per person and include pickup from your accommodation in Vila do Porto, a certified guide, and a light meal. The format is straightforward: your guide collects you in the morning, drives to the trailhead, and walks the entire route with you, explaining the geology, endemic flora, and local stories you won't find in any guidebook.

The trail varies depending on the day and weather conditions, but the most requested route (for good reason) is the Costa Sul trail, PR05SMA: 8 linear kilometres from Forte de São Brás in Vila do Porto to Praia Formosa. It takes roughly 3 hours at a moderate pace, passing through cliffs, caves, and beaches only accessible on foot.

Step by Step: The Costa Sul Trail

The walk begins at Forte de São Brás, a 17th-century military fort overlooking Calhau da Roupa bay. The first stretch follows a dirt path to São Francisco stream, where migratory birds gather in autumn and winter. The SMATUR guide identifies species as you go, turning the hike into a field lesson without the tedium of an actual lecture.

The first stop that genuinely impresses is Pedreira do Campo, classified as a Natural Monument. Marine fossils embedded in the rock face prove this island was once submerged, millions of years ago. The guide explains the geological timeline with enough detail to be fascinating without becoming a university seminar.

Next comes Figueiral Cave, an artificial grotto where clay and limestone were once quarried for local construction. It's cool inside and a good place to drink water and catch your breath before the climb to Touril, the highest section of the trail. From Touril, you can spot wild rabbits and, with luck, the Regulus regulus sanctae mariae, Europe's smallest bird and endemic to this island alone.

After Touril, the path descends through woodland to Prainha, a small beach reached via a steel cable when seas are rough. It's a decent spot to dip your feet, but the real reward comes next: the final kilometres pass the ruins of Forte de São João Baptista before arriving at Praia Formosa, the largest and most famous beach in the Azores.

The Best Moment

Praia Formosa is where everything clicks. After three hours walking along cliffs and through caves, arriving at a yellow sand beach with transparent water has an effect no drive-up beach can replicate. This is where SMATUR serves the light meal included in the price, typically featuring local produce.

My recommendation: do the trail early morning. Fewer people, cooler temperatures, and the low-angle light on the south coast cliffs is something else entirely. In the afternoon, the heat can be punishing, especially between June and September.

If you want to extend the day, Praia Formosa is also the starting point for the PR06 Areia Branca trail, which continues to Baía de São Lourenço. But that's another level of commitment: 11.5 additional kilometres connecting the island's two white sand beaches.

Practical Information

• Operator: SMATUR
• Price: €40 per person (transfers, guide, and light meal included)
• Duration: Approximately 3 hours hiking (plus transfer time)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Contact: +351 926 468 668 / [email protected]
• Website: www.smatur.pt
• Meeting point: Pickup from accommodation in Vila do Porto

What to Bring

• Hiking boots with grip soles (sections of dirt track and rock)
• Sunscreen and a hat (Santa Maria doesn't have the cloud cover of other Azorean islands)
• At least 1.5 litres of water per person
• Swimwear if you want to finish with a swim at Praia Formosa
• Camera: Pedreira do Campo and the Touril viewpoint deserve it

Getting There

Vila do Porto is the only town on Santa Maria, served by regular SATA flights from São Miguel and Lisbon. SMATUR picks you up from your accommodation, so you don't need a car for the trail, though having one is useful for exploring the rest of the island. Before or after the hike, it's worth driving up to Miradouro da Macela for a panoramic view across the island.

Other Options

SMATUR also runs full-day island tours (€52 without meals, €67 with meals), birdwatching outings (€25), and mountain biking trips (€65 to €100). If you're staying more than two days, combine the hike with a visit to the island's artisan cheese producers, who make varieties that rarely leave Santa Maria.

Other local operators include Bootlá (specialising in trekking and jeep safaris) and Paraíso Radical, but SMATUR stands out for value and their personalised approach. Always confirm availability directly with the operator, especially outside peak season.