Tomar

Tomar exists because of the Knights Templar, and there's no point pretending otherwise. The Convent of Christ sits above the city on a wooded hill, and it's arguably the most impressive monument in central Portugal, the Chapter Window alone is worth the trip. But reducing Tomar to the convent means missing half of what's here.

A city built for walking

The old centre follows the course of the River Nabão, with Praça da República as the natural starting point. The Church of São João Baptista, right on the square, has a Manueline portal that most visitors rush past, too focused on climbing to the convent. Rua Serpa Pinto, the main commercial street, still moves at a pace you won't find in larger cities, neighbourhood shops, unpretentious cafés, people who actually greet each other.

Across the river, the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes provides shade and quiet, functioning as the city's garden. It's the right place for a midday break, especially in summer, when Tomar gets properly hot.

The Festa dos Tabuleiros

If there's one reason to plan your visit well ahead, it's the Festa dos Tabuleiros, held only every four years, turning the city inside out for a full week. Young women parade with tall trays of bread and flowers balanced on their heads, continuing a tradition that goes back centuries. In off-years, Tomar is considerably quieter, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

What to eat and how long to stay

The fatia de Tomar, a slice of fried dough covered in syrup, is the local sweet, and you'll find it in virtually every pastry shop in the centre. For a proper meal, the regional cooking leans on roast kid, and Rabaçal cheeses produced not far from here.

One full day is enough to see the convent properly and walk the centre. Two days let you explore the surroundings, the Castelo de Bode reservoir sits just a few kilometres away and is one of the largest in the country. Tomar works well as a base for the Middle Tagus area, but also as a half-day stop between Lisbon and Coimbra.