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Itineraries, places and ideas for your next escape. Find inspiration and practical details to travel at your own pace.
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Grilled limpets, six-month aged São Jorge cheese, Verdelho from Pico at 25 euros a bottle. A serious itinerary for an evening of petiscos in Ribeira Grande, no ceremony and no fluff.
At seven in the morning, before the northeast wind picks up, vans from Aljezur unload peaches, small melons and ripe white figs. An honest guide to buying seasonal fruit around Sagres, month by month, with real prices and what to cook after.
Summer is, despite what the brochures say, the best time to walk Funchal's levadas. Fourteen hours of daylight, cool air at 1,000 metres, and waterfalls you can swim in. But only if you leave the house before 7:30am.
Once every four years, Tomar fills with young women balancing towers of 30 loaves on their heads and streets carpeted in handmade flowers. An honest guide to seeing the Festa dos Tabuleiros without ending up sleeping in Abrantes.
Everyone passes through São João da Pesqueira on the way somewhere else. Mistake: this plateau town at 500 metres is one of the best Douro bases, with almond blossom in February, honest estates and half the tourists of Pinhão.
The Palace of Mateus is not in Sabrosa, it is in Vila Real, and the confusion has lasted decades. But Sabrosa's real Mateus connection, built from old vineyards, family quintas and the birthplace of Ferdinand Magellan, is worth far more than any bottle photograph.
At 38 degrees on Avenida Almirante Reis, the asphalt melts and tourists clump in Rossio's meagre shade. This is the guide to staying in Lisbon in summer and doing it right: sunrise viewpoints, cool museums at midday, and where to swim when nothing else works.
Three days at the Passeio Marítimo de Algés, with the Tagus reflecting the sunset and Lisbon forty minutes away by train. An honest guide to doing NOS Alive right, without falling into rookie mistakes.
You searched for the 15 best Algarve beaches in July and the algorithm sent you to Torre de Moncorvo, 600 kilometres from the sea. It wasn't a mistake: rivers to swim in, cold Douro Superior whites, and medieval streets without a tuk-tuk in sight.
At the Mercado Municipal 1.º de Maio, Saturday at 8am, you can assemble a picnic for four for under 25 euros: Serpa cheese, black pork paio, Alentejo bread that actually weighs something. This is the opinionated guide that separates the worthwhile from the merely photogenic.
Viseu's old town isn't a city you rush. A walking guide through Rua Direita and Casa do Adro, with mandatory stops at Confeitaria Amaral, Café Hermínio and Armazém do Caffè, plus two workshops that will reshape your day.
Monthly market on the 6th, Alfândega cherries at five euros a kilo, heather honey that crystallises in your backpack, and the best roast kid found halfway down the street. An honest guide to Mogadouro's edible summer, with the right hour for each thing.